The treatment of ethnic skin is not always distinct as “black” and “white”. The differences in skin are multi-factorial including texture, tone, thickness, moisture, sensitivities, and melanin levels. As each of these factors contribute to exclusive responses to both environmental exposure and to the sun, they also create variation in reactions to skin treatments and products.

 

In the effort to scientifically predict and minimize the various possible skin sensitivities and reactions based upon sun or ultraviolet light exposure with the person’s genetic make-up, Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, M.D., a dermatologist, developed in 1975, a classification which bears his name. The Fitzpatrick Scale is the skin color range used by skin care professionals around the world today. This standard scale places skin type into one of six categories, ranging from Skin Type I (very fair) to Skin Type VI (very dark).

 

Even within this scale, there is a wide range of human skin color variation. For example, take any one ethnic group in consideration. There may be different skin types, as well as multiracial and mixed-race individuals. Since “beauty is in the eye of the beholder”, the aesthetic goals will vary based on the individual’s ethnic and cultural value. Case-in-point, many Caucasian patients seek a natural tan or bronze skin color and enjoy sporting this look, whereas Asian patients, prefer skin-whitening treatments.

 

The characteristic difference in skin color is the amount of melanin which gives skin its color. Because ethnic skin contains higher levels of melanin, which enhances the absorption of the sun’s ultraviolet light rays, there is a misunderstanding that ethnic skin doesn’t burn. This is not true! Actually, ethnic skin, such as Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV to VI, can at times burn deeper than non-ethnic skin (i.e. Caucasian skin). So as a result, highly pigmented skin can suffer just as well as lighter skin tones, from an array of conditions such as blisters, rashes, and hyperpigmentation, just to mention a few examples.

 

When it comes to ethnic skin, uneven skin tones and hyperpigmentation are among the primary concern. There are many causes to these uneven skin tones and hyperpigmentation, some due to environmental sun exposure or skin care products. Others, can be hormone levels and lifestyle factors. Many spa patients with ethnic skin silently fear that a skin procedure or treatment will lead to pigment changes, either lightening or darkening the skin. Their fear is justified from past skin reaction experiences, such as, acne outbreaks, insect bites, and routine shaving facial hair. Afterwards, there is a residual mark remaining on the skin, either darkened or lightened. Usually, these skin markings are temporary and are self-limited to resolve over time, but to the person who has this situation, the skin appearance is cosmetically unacceptable and this can lead to dissatisfaction or unnecessary stress.

 

Another common concern for people with ethnic skin are dark patches and spots. These develop when skin areas are traumatized, scarred, scratched, or scratched. On Caucasian skin, trauma to skin will appear as a bruise. On ethnic skin, trauma to skin will appear as a bruise as well, but also remain darker in the affected area for a longer duration of time. Other less common concerns affecting ethnic skin include extreme oil production (acne), vitiligo, a disease causing loss of pigmentation in patches of skin, and keloid scarring. Keloid formation occurs in ethnic skin more frequently than in non-ethnic skin due to the higher content of collagen in ethnic skin.

Regardless of skin type and color, baseline skin condition assessment is required. This includes sensitivity and reaction, inflammation, rosacea, uneven tone, texture, sun damage, pore size, acne, wrinkles, and moisture content or dryness. Most, if not all, of these skin conditions are present in any color of skin. But, ethnic skin with darker skin tones are frequently affected more than other skin types. This is why the treatment of ethnic skin can be a challenging experience. The goal is to avoid the most reaction of inflammation to the skin. The more trauma to the skin, the more inflammation is produced, and therefore, the higher the probability of pigmentation changes.

 

To properly treat the skin in order to reduce inflammatory pigmentation changes, a consultation by a skin care professional should be performed prior to all treatments. Basic questions such as allergies, medications, and personal medical history are important. Just as important are family history inquiries that may genetically predispose the individual to similar conditions, such as to vitiligo and keloid formation.

 

Although there are many different skin conditions, there are just as many techniques and approach options to correct and treat them. The consultation process allows the skin care professional to get to know the individual’s surrounding circumstances that is causing the skin

condition, such as sun exposure, stress levels, environment, lifestyle, genetics, ethnic group, and medications. The individual patient should, in addition, address with the skin care professional, their skincare goals and concerns. All these factors are just as important as skin type and color, alone. 

 

For example, the ethnic skin types of African-Americans, Asians, Indians, Middle Easterners, Latinos, and others, can all be treated equally well with a combination of first-line ingredients in products, state-of-the-art lasers and equipment, and trained, experienced professional skin care staff, including physicians, aestheticians, and skin care therapists.